Mar 14, 2020 Dr. Preeti Talwar Skincare
As they say, ‘Exfoliation is the key to amazing skin.’ It eliminates dead skin cells and polishes the skin. Refines pores and smoothens wrinkles. All skin types need to exfoliate for a healthy glowing look. It helps fight against acne and blemishes.
What is exfoliation?
Skin exfoliation is the process of removing dead cells from the surface layer of the skin by using an exfoliant, and this could be either physical or chemical exfoliant. Both physical and chemical exfoliation do the same job of scrubbing off the dead skin cells. Then what is the difference between the two, and why do people have an affinity for chemical exfoliation?
Physical exfoliation includes small exfoliation beads, a brush, or a scalpel. The use of scrub brushes is not recommended as they are not gentle on the skin. Sometimes physical exfoliants like nutshells and fruit pits can wear and tear the skin. These mildly abrasive substances sand off dead cells but may lead to cuts that turn into permanent scars.
Chemical exfoliation, as the name says, is the method that uses different chemicals, which include hydroxyl acids and retinol, with enzymes to renew the skin. The results using chemical exfoliation is more dramatic compared to physical exfoliation. But these have to be used with caution as they might end up irritating the skin. Peels are great chemical exfoliants that transform the skin from dull to healthy skin.
What to look for while purchasing chemical exfoliants?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These are derived from natural substances like sugary fruits and are water-soluble. They exfoliate dry skin and transform it into smooth skin texture. These don’t go deep in the pores like BHAs.The popular AHAs include-
1. Glycolic Acid (sugar cane)
2. Lactic Acid (milk)
3. Citric Acid (citrus fruits)
4. Tartaric Acid (grapes)
5. Malic Acid (apples)
These acids peel off dead cells from the surface of the skin to let new skin cells generate.
These AHAs may even help people treat-
1. Mild hyperpigmentation like age spots, melasma, scars
2. Enlarged pores
3. Fine lines, surface wrinkles
4. Uneven skin tone
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): These types of chemical exfoliants are oil-soluble and hence go deeper into the hair follicles. They dry excess oil and get rid of dead skin cells that clog pores. BHAs are good for acne-prone and sun-damaged skin. It contains Salicylic acid, which helps treat acne and soothes the skin by reducing redness and inflammation.
How to choose the right exfoliant?
1. Sensitive skin: BHAs are good for sensitive skin as they are less irritating and more gentle
2. Normal skin: Normal skin types can try both AHA and BHA as they won’t experience any adverse effects
3. Dry skin: AHAs are good for dry skin as glycolic acid can penetrate through the skin surface and help to regenerate new cells fast
4. Oily skin: Oily skin types have enlarged pores trapping a higher amount of dirt and dead skin cells. Under doctor supervision, they are allowed to use strong chemical exfoliators to clean the skin but only under dermatologist supervision
5. Combination skin: Combination skin types have both dry and oily areas on the face. So, scrubs can be used on the oily/shiny areas on one day and low- level AHA on the dry areas the next day. This is done to focus on each area individually.
6. Acne-prone skin: For acne-prone skin, both BHAs and AHAs can be used for exfoliation
How to use
Make it a religious part of your skincare regimen to exfoliate twice a week. First, one should cleanse the skin, then take a little chemical exfoliant on a cotton pad or hand and apply it on the bare skin. Leave it for 5 minutes for the skin to soak it. Then clean the skin, moisturize, and use sunscreen to get the best results. Since one has to get used to these chemical exfoliants, start first once a week, and then gradually, you could increase the frequency of usage. If you have enlarged pores, exfoliate weekly thrice. Too much usage can cause tears and strip the skin of its outer protective layer.
Natural exfoliants like powdered salt and sugar, oats, apples, coffee, citrus, baking soda, and rice are also good and effective exfoliants.
A basic skincare routine would include-
Cleanse + Exfoliate + Treat + Moisturize + Protection (SPF)
It is said, ‘Beautiful skin requires commitment, not a miracle.’ Just invest in your skin as it is going to represent you for a long time. One is never too old to own youthful and healthy skin, so incorporate exfoliation in your regimen.