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Licorice Extract
Licorice Extract (Mulethi) for Gentle Brightening, Redness Reduction, and Pigment Inhibition: Complete Ingredient Guide
Licorice extract, derived from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant (widely known as Mulethi in India), is a botanical powerhouse with robust clinical evidence for skin brightening and soothing. Driven by active compounds like Glabridin and Glycyrrhizinic Acid, it uniquely fades dark spots while simultaneously calming the redness and inflammation that often accompany hyperpigmentation.
At a Glance: Licorice Extract
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract / Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract |
| Alternate Names | Mulethi, Licorice Root Extract, Glabridin (primary active), Glycyrrhizinic Acid |
| Category | Botanical — Pigment Inhibitor and Anti-Inflammatory |
| Primary Functions | Tyrosinase inhibition (via Glabridin), anti-inflammatory action (via Glycyrrhizinic Acid), UV-induced pigmentation prevention |
| Studied Concentration | Standardized extract; active compound Glabridin is highly effective at low concentrations (0.1 to 1.0 μg/ml) |
| pH Requirement | Highly stable across a broad pH range (4.0 to 7.0) |
| Photosensitizing Risk | None; safe for daytime use and actually protects against UV-induced erythema (redness) |
| Regulatory Status | Globally recognized as safe, non-comedogenic, and highly effective for topical cosmetic use |
What Is Licorice Extract and Why Does It Work?
Licorice extract, derived from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant (widely known as Mulethi in India), is a botanical powerhouse with robust clinical evidence for skin brightening and soothing. Its efficacy is driven by two primary active compounds: Glabridin and Glycyrrhizinic Acid.
Glabridin is a potent isoflavone that acts as a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor, directly disrupting the pathway of melanin production. Unlike harsh chemical lighteners, Glabridin selectively targets overactive melanocytes without affecting normally pigmented cells. Simultaneously, Glycyrrhizinic Acid provides profound anti-inflammatory benefits by inhibiting prostaglandin and cytokine activity. This dual-action mechanism makes Licorice Extract uniquely capable of fading dark spots while simultaneously calming the redness and inflammation that often accompany hyperpigmentation.
Functional Role in Skincare
| Functional Role | Category | Sub-role Mechanism |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Active | Tyrosinase Inhibitor (Glabridin) | Reversibly and noncompetitively inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, reducing UVB-induced melanin synthesis at the cellular source. |
| Primary Active | Anti-Inflammatory Agent (Glycyrrhizinic Acid) | Suppresses prostaglandin synthesis and inflammatory cytokines, reducing erythema and the inflammatory triggers that drive Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH). |
| Supporting Active | Selective Depigmentation | Preferentially affects hyperactive melanocytes, ensuring an even skin tone without causing abnormal hypopigmentation (white spots) in normal skin. |
Skin Concerns Licorice Extract Treats
| Skin Concern | Root Cause Addressed | Mechanism of Action | Studied Concentration | Research Anchor |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UV-Triggered Dark Spots and Uneven Tone | Continuous UVB exposure activating tyrosinase in sun-exposed skin. | Glabridin specifically inhibits this UVB-activated tyrosinase response, preventing new melanin formation and fading existing sun spots. | Standardized Extract | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 (PMID 9639720) |
| PIH with Associated Redness | Inflammation from breakouts leaving both dark marks and residual redness. | Addresses both the pigmentation (via Glabridin) and the inflammatory redness (via Glycyrrhizinic Acid) simultaneously. | Standardized Extract | Planta Med, 1994 (PMID 15643174) |
| Reactive and Sensitive Skin | Environmental stress triggering inflammatory cascades and baseline reactivity. | Calms the skin's immune response, reducing erythema and strengthening the skin's tolerance to external aggressors. | Standardized Extract | J Ethnopharmacol, 2018 |
Why Licorice Extract Is Effective for Indian Skin and Climate
India’s specific environmental conditions and cultural heritage make Licorice Extract a highly relevant and trusted ingredient.
Ayurvedic Heritage Meets Clinical Science: Mulethi (licorice) has deep roots in Indian Ayurvedic medicine and traditional household skincare, used for centuries for skin brightening. The Derma Co translates this traditional ingredient credibility into evidence-based cosmetics, combining Mulethi's documented Glabridin mechanism with clinical actives like Kojic Acid and Tranexamic Acid.
UV-Driven Pigmentation: India's year-round high UV index continuously activates tyrosinase in sun-exposed skin. Glabridin specifically inhibits this UVB-activated tyrosinase response, making it highly relevant for Indian sun-driven pigmentation.
PIH with Redness in Darker Skin: When breakouts from humidity and heat leave both dark marks and residual redness, Licorice Extract addresses both the pigmentation and the inflammatory redness simultaneously, a critical need for Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV to VI where inflammation directly triggers melanin overproduction.
How Licorice Extract Works: Three Mechanisms of Action
1. Noncompetitive Tyrosinase Inhibition (Pigment Blockade)
Glabridin binds to the tyrosinase enzyme in a reversible, noncompetitive manner, effectively disabling its ability to catalyze melanin production. It specifically inhibits UVB-induced pigmentation, disrupting the pathway before melanin can even form.
2. Prostaglandin and Cytokine Inhibition (Redness Reduction)
Glycyrrhizinic Acid intercepts inflammatory signaling pathways. By inhibiting the synthesis of prostaglandins and pro-inflammatory cytokines, it rapidly calms erythema (redness) and reduces the inflammation that triggers melanocytes to overproduce pigment.
3. Melanosome Degradation and Transfer Suppression
Recent studies show that Glabridin not only stops new melanin production but also promotes the degradation of existing melanosomes (pigment packets) and suppresses their transfer to surrounding skin cells via autophagy pathways, accelerating the fading of existing dark spots.
Clinical Evidence: Peer-Reviewed Research
| Concentration | Outcome Measured | Study Type | Source & Year | Key Finding |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.1 to 1.0 μg/ml (Glabridin) | UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis | In-vitro / Clinical | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 | Glabridin demonstrated significant inhibition of UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis in human keratinocytes. (PMID 9639720) |
| Standardized Extract | Anti-inflammatory activity | Controlled Study | Planta Med, 1994 | Glycyrrhizinic acid demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory activity through prostaglandin and cytokine inhibition in controlled studies. (PMID 15643174) |
| 0.43 μmol/L (IC50) | Tyrosinase inhibition kinetics | Biochemical Study | Spectrochim Acta A, 2016 | Glabridin reversibly inhibits tyrosinase in a noncompetitive manner through a multiphase kinetic process, proving its potent enzyme-blocking capability. (PMID 27288962) |
Who Should Use Licorice Extract: Skin Type Guide
| Primary Concern | Skin Type | Severity | Recommended Approach |
|---|---|---|---|
| UV-triggered dark spots and uneven tone | All skin types | Mild to moderate | Use a Licorice Extract-infused serum or moisturizer daily alongside sunscreen to prevent and fade sun spots. |
| PIH with associated redness | Acne-prone, sensitive | Mild to moderate | Apply a Cica-Glow formula containing Licorice Extract to simultaneously target the dark mark and the underlying inflammation. |
| Reactive and redness-prone skin | Sensitive, rosacea-prone | Mild | Use Licorice Extract as a foundational soothing ingredient to calm baseline reactivity and strengthen the skin's tolerance. |
| Dullness and post-acne marks | Normal, oily, combination | Mild | Incorporate a Licorice Extract face wash or serum for gentle, daily brightening without the irritation of strong acids. |
How to Use Licorice Extract: Application Guide
Beginner to Advanced Routine
Beginner
New to botanical brighteners
1
Apply a Licorice Extract-containing product (like a face wash or moisturizer) once daily.
2
It is exceptionally gentle and requires no adjustment period.
Intermediate
Established routine
1
Layer a Licorice Extract serum (like the 10% Cica-Glow Face Serum) morning and/or evening.
2
It pairs seamlessly with other brightening actives.
Advanced
Uses strong clinical actives
1
Use Licorice Extract as a soothing buffer alongside strong clinical actives like Kojic Acid or chemical exfoliants.
2
This helps minimize irritation while maximizing brightening results.
Application Rules
AM/PM Suitability: Safe for both morning and evening use.
Routine Step: Apply after cleansing and toning, before heavier creams or oils.
Sunscreen Requirement: Safe for daytime use; does not cause photosensitivity. Daily SPF 30+ is still required to prevent UV from triggering the tyrosinase that Licorice Extract is trying to inhibit.
Patch Testing: Low reaction risk, but always patch-test new formulations behind the ear or on the inner arm.
What Licorice Extract Cannot Do
Does not erase deep dermal melasma alone: It is highly effective for epidermal (surface) pigmentation and UV-induced spots. Deep, hormone-driven melasma requires a multi-ingredient approach (e.g., with Tranexamic Acid).
Does not exfoliate the skin: It has no keratolytic properties. It stops new pigment formation but does not physically remove existing pigmented dead skin cells.
Does not work instantly: Botanical brightening is a gradual process. Visible results require consistent daily use over 6 to 8 weeks.
Does not replace dedicated clinical actives for stubborn spots: While excellent, it is often most effective when combined with targeted inhibitors like Kojic Acid or Alpha Arbutin for severe hyperpigmentation.
Licorice Extract Compatibility: Pairing Guide
| Ingredient | Compatibility | Mechanism Relationship | Benefit of Pairing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tranexamic Acid | Highly Recommended | Upstream signaling blockade | Both work upstream on pigmentation signaling; together they provide more complete melanin suppression. |
| Kojic Acid | Highly Recommended | Additive tyrosinase inhibition | Complementary tyrosinase inhibition mechanisms provide a stronger, multi-pathway brightening effect. |
| Centella Asiatica | Highly Recommended | Synergistic soothing | Both are anti-inflammatory and soothing; used together for comprehensive calming and brightening. |
| Niacinamide | Highly Recommended | Multi-pathway brightening | Niacinamide blocks pigment transfer to the surface while Licorice stops pigment production at the source. |
How to Find the Right Licorice Extract for You (The Derma Co Range)
The Derma Co integrates Licorice Extract (Mulethi) into targeted formulations to provide gentle, effective brightening and soothing across all skin types:
For PIH + Active Acne Inflammation: 10% Cica-Glow Face Serum (30ml) – Combines Licorice Extract with Cica, Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin for comprehensive inflammatory-pigmentation treatment.
For Soothing + Brightening Moisture: 5% Cica-Glow Daily Face Moisturizer (50g) – Delivers soothing hydration alongside gentle botanical brightening.
For Stubborn Dark Spots: 3% Kojic Acid Dark Spot Corrector Gel (30g) – Combines Licorice with Kojic, Azelaic, and Tranexamic Acids for targeted, stubborn spot treatment.
For Daily Gentle Cleansing: 2% Cica-Glow Daily Face Wash (100ml) – Provides a gentle, brightening cleanse powered by Mulethi to prep the skin without stripping the barrier.
Note: The Derma Co’s Cica-Glow and dark spot ranges are budget-accessible, with products priced from approximately ₹349 to ₹799.
Frequently Asked Questions About Licorice Extract
Q: How does Licorice Extract fade dark spots?
A: Glabridin, its primary active compound, reversibly and noncompetitively inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, stopping the production of new melanin at the cellular source. It also promotes the degradation of existing pigment packets within the skin.
Q: Is Licorice Extract (Mulethi) safe for sensitive skin?
A: Yes. It is exceptionally gentle and non-irritating. Its anti-inflammatory properties actually calm reactive skin, making it ideal for sensitive and rosacea-prone types.
Q: Can Licorice Extract be used with Vitamin C and Retinol?
A: Yes. It is highly compatible with all active ingredients. It acts as a soothing buffer that reduces the irritation associated with strong actives while complementing their brightening effects.
Q: How long does it take for Licorice Extract to show results?
A: Improved skin tone evenness and reduced redness typically take 6 to 8 weeks of consistent daily use, as the skin must complete its natural turnover cycle to shed existing pigment.
Q: Does Licorice Extract make the skin sensitive to the sun?
A: No. It does not exfoliate the skin or increase photosensitivity. In fact, Glabridin has been shown to reduce UVB-induced erythema (redness), making it an excellent daytime ingredient.
References
- Biol Pharm Bull. 1998. Glabridin demonstrated significant inhibition of UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis in human keratinocytes. (PMID 9639720)
- Planta Med. 1994. Glycyrrhizinic acid demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory activity through prostaglandin and cytokine inhibition in controlled studies. (PMID 15643174)
- Spectrochim Acta A Mol Biom Spectrosc. 2016. Glabridin reversibly inhibits tyrosinase in a noncompetitive manner through a multiphase kinetic process with an IC50 of 0.43 μmol/L. (PMID 27288962)
- J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020. Glabridin promotes melanosome degradation and alleviates melanosome-induced mitochondrial dysfunction in keratinocytes via autophagy.
- Yokota, T., et al. The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Res. 1998;11(6):355-361. (PMID 9870547)