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The Derma Co. 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Aqua Gel Clinical Testing
Independently Lab Tested
The Derma Co. 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Aqua Gel: Clinical Testing and Efficacy Guide
Independently tested at CCFT Laboratories with verified in-vivo SPF 50.169 and PA++++ rating (CTRI/2025/02/080287).
This product was evaluated for sunscreen efficacy at CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. in accordance with international standards ISO 24444:2019 and COLIPA guidelines.
At a Glance: Sunscreen Performance Metrics
| In-Vivo SPF | In-Vitro SPF | PA Rating | Boots Star Rating | Critical Wavelength | Broad Spectrum |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50.169 | 50.65 | PA++++ | ★★★ | 379.33 nm | Yes |
1. Certificate Verification Details
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Product Tested | The Derma Co. 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Aqua Gel |
| Batch Number | NA |
| Sponsor | Honasa Consumer Limited |
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., Meerut |
| Lab Certifications | ISO 9001:2015, ISO 45001:2015, OECD GLP Compliant |
| Lab Designation | FIST Centre by Dept. of Science & Technology, Govt. of India |
| CTRI Registration | CTRI/2025/02/080287 |
| Registration Date | 10 February 2025 |
| Date of Issue | 27 February 2025 |
| In-Vivo Method | ISO 24444:2019 |
| In-Vitro Method | COLIPA Guideline |
| Signed By | Nidhi Dixit, Clinical Research Associate |
2. Clinical Test Results and Interpretation
2.1 In-Vivo SPF Testing (ISO 24444:2019)
Result: SPF 50.169
The in-vivo Sun Protection Factor of 50.169 means the sunscreen provides approximately 50 times more protection against UVB-induced erythema than unprotected skin. This result classifies the product in the SPF 50+ tier, representing very high UVB protection under standardized laboratory conditions on human participants (ISO 24444:2019).
2.2 In-Vitro Testing (COLIPA Guideline)
| Parameter | Result | Clinical Significance |
|---|---|---|
| In-Vitro SPF | 50.65 | Confirms formulation consistency with in-vivo results (50.169) |
| PA Rating | PA++++ | Highest UVA protection category requiring UVA-PF ≥16 |
| Boots Star Rating | ★★★ | 3-star rating indicates good UVA/UVB protection ratio (0.60-0.79) |
| Broad Spectrum | Yes | Verified protection across UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) ranges |
| Critical Wavelength | 379.33 nm | Exceeds 370 nm threshold by 9.33 nm, confirming extended UVA-I coverage |
2.3 What Boots Star Rating ★★★ Means
The Boots Star Rating system measures the ratio of UVA protection to UVB protection. A 3-star rating (★★★) indicates a UVA/UVB protection ratio between 0.60 and 0.79, representing good balance between UVA and UVB defense (Diffey, 2011). This ensures the sunscreen provides proportional protection against both types of ultraviolet radiation.
2.4 What Critical Wavelength 379.33 nm Means
Critical wavelength measures the point where 90% of a sunscreen's total UV absorbance occurs across the spectrum. At 379.33 nm, this product exceeds the international 370 nm threshold by 9.33 nanometers. This extended coverage reaches deeper into the UVA-I range (340-400 nm), which penetrates the dermis and causes long-term photoaging and structural skin damage (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
3. Formulation Analysis: UV Filter System
The Derma Co. 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Aqua Gel uses a six-filter photostable system to achieve broad-spectrum protection.
| Filter Type | Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|---|
| UVA Filter | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) | Absorbs UVA radiation at 360 nm; primary driver of PA++++ rating |
| UVA Filter | Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) | Provides photostable UVA protection across 310-400 nm range |
| UVB Filter | Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) | Water-soluble UVB absorber for lightweight aqua gel texture |
| UVB Filter | Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) | Primary UVB filter contributing to SPF 50+ result |
| UVB/UVA Filter | Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate) | UVB absorption and Avobenzone photostabilization |
| Broad Spectrum | Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) | Dual-action filter absorbing and scattering UV across full spectrum |
3.1 Photostabilization Strategy
Avobenzone degrades under UV exposure when used alone, losing UVA protection capacity. This formula contains two photostabilizers: Ethylhexyl Salicylate and Tinosorb M. These ingredients prevent Avobenzone degradation through energy transfer mechanisms, ensuring the PA++++ protection remains stable during sun exposure (Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524).
4. Hydration and Skin Health Actives
| Active Ingredient | Concentration | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 1% | Primary humectant drawing moisture to stratum corneum |
| Niacinamide | Present | Supports skin barrier function and reduces hyperpigmentation |
| Aquaxyl Complex | Present | Patented system (Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol) for multi-depth hydration |
| Biosaccharide Gum-4 | Present | Supports skin microbiome environment and provides additional hydration |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | Present | Vitamin E antioxidant protecting against free radicals |
| Blueberry Extract | Present | Antioxidant support against environmental stressors |
| Allantoin | Present | Skin conditioning and soothing agent |
| Glycerin | Present | Humectant supporting stratum corneum hydration |
5. Texture and Application System
| Component | Function |
|---|---|
| Aqua Gel Base | Water-based formulation for lightweight, non-greasy application |
| Tapioca Starch | Provides matte finish and absorbs excess sebum |
| Isododecane | Enables rapid spreading and even distribution before evaporating |
| Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer | Creates gel matrix for uniform UV filter distribution |
| Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000) | Forms stable, skin-compatible emulsion |
| Propylene Glycol | Humectant and penetration enhancer |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | Lightweight emollient without greasy residue |
| Decyl Glucoside | Mild surfactant for even application |
6. Exclusion Profile: What This Formula Does Not Contain
| Absent Ingredient | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| No mineral oil | Uses lightweight emollients instead of petrolatum derivatives for non-greasy aqua gel texture |
| No heavy occlusives | Aqua gel formulation avoids waxes and butters that create greasy texture |
| No physical UV filters | Chemical filters provide transparent application without white cast |
7. Published Research Supporting Key Ingredients
7.1 UV Filters and Photoprotection
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Avobenzone | Provides UVA protection at 360 nm but requires photostabilizers to prevent degradation | Gaspar & Maia Campos, 2012, PMID: 22998660 |
| Mexoryl SX | Photostable UVA filter with proven protection across 310-400 nm range | Fourtanier et al., 2008, PMID: 18489491 |
| Tinosorb M | Dual-mechanism filter providing broad-spectrum absorption and photostability | Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374 |
| Avobenzone + Photostabilizers | Ethylhexyl salicylate and Tinosorb M prevent avobenzone photodegradation | Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524 |
| Broad Spectrum Protection | Critical wavelength ≥370 nm confirms UVA-I protection | Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374 |
7.2 Skin Health Actives
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | 5% niacinamide significantly reduces hyperpigmentation and improves skin barrier function | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180; Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135 |
| Niacinamide | Reduces transepidermal water loss and improves stratum corneum barrier | Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280 |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Topical application improves skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss | Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024 |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates stratum corneum and improves skin elasticity | Pavicic et al., 2011, PMID: 22151928 |
| Vitamin E (Tocopherol) | Topical vitamin E provides antioxidant protection against UV-induced oxidative stress | Thiele et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310 |
| Glycerin | Enhances stratum corneum hydration and barrier function | Fluhr et al., 2001, PMID: 11348430 |
7.3 Prebiotics and Microbiome Support
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Biosaccharide Gum-4 | Supports skin microbiome diversity and enhances barrier function | Gueniche et al., 2014, PMID: 24641202 |
| Allantoin | Promotes wound healing and provides skin soothing effects | Whitehouse et al., 1997, PMID: 9173762 |
8. Frequently Asked Questions
A: The Boots Star Rating of ★★★ indicates a UVA/UVB protection ratio between 0.60 and 0.79, representing good balance between UVA and UVB defense according to the Boots Company PLC methodology (Diffey, 2011). This ensures proportional protection against both types of ultraviolet radiation that cause skin damage.
A: The aqua gel formulation uses a water-based matrix with lightweight humectants like propylene glycol and sodium hyaluronate. This creates a non-greasy, fast-absorbing texture that provides hydration without the heavy feel of cream-based sunscreens (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024).
A: Critical wavelength of 379.33 nm exceeds the 370 nm international threshold by 9.33 nanometers. This confirms extended coverage into the UVA-I range (340-400 nm) responsible for deep dermal penetration and long-term photoaging (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
A: Biosaccharide Gum-4 supports the skin microbiome environment while providing additional hydration. Research shows that prebiotic ingredients help maintain skin microbiome diversity and enhance barrier function (Gueniche et al., 2014, PMID: 24641202).
A: Yes, the lightweight aqua gel texture with tapioca starch provides a matte finish that serves as an excellent base for makeup. The fast-absorbing formula with isododecane evaporates quickly, leaving no greasy residue that could interfere with makeup application.
A: Under ISO 24444:2019 standards, SPF 50.169 means the sunscreen provides approximately 50 times more protection against UVB-induced skin damage than unprotected skin. This classifies the product in the SPF 50+ tier for very high daily UVB defense (ISO 24444:2019).
A: Yes, the aqua gel formulation with tapioca starch absorbs excess sebum and provides a matte finish, making it ideal for humid climates. The lightweight water-based texture prevents the heavy, greasy feel that can be uncomfortable in high-humidity conditions.
A: The Aquaxyl complex (xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol) works at multiple skin depths to optimize water circulation and retention. This patented system complements the 1% sodium hyaluronate to provide comprehensive hydration throughout the stratum corneum (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024).
A: The formula contains ethylhexyl salicylate and Tinosorb M, which stabilize avobenzone through energy transfer mechanisms. This prevents the degradation of UVA filters during sun exposure, ensuring the PA++++ protection remains effective throughout wear (Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524).
A: While not mandatory, CTRI registration demonstrates transparency and commitment to clinical validation. Registration CTRI/2025/02/080287 creates a publicly verifiable record at ctri.nic.in, allowing consumers to independently verify the study's existence and parameters.
A: Niacinamide at concentrations of 2-5% significantly reduces hyperpigmentation, improves skin barrier function, and reduces transepidermal water loss (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180; Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280). This makes it an ideal ingredient for daily-use sunscreens.
A: Topical vitamin E (tocopherol) provides antioxidant protection against UV-induced oxidative stress and free radical damage (Thiele et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310). It works synergistically with UV filters to provide comprehensive photoprotection.
9. Application Guidelines
| Guideline | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Amount | Apply 2 mg/cm² (approximately 1/4 teaspoon for face) |
| Timing | Apply 15 minutes before sun exposure |
| Reapplication | Reapply every 2 hours during continuous sun exposure |
| Daily Use | Apply every morning as final step in skincare routine |
| Coverage | Ensure even distribution to prevent gaps in protection |
| Layering | Can be layered under makeup after 2-3 minutes of absorption |
10. Certificate Verification
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., Meerut |
| Lab Address | Centre for Cruelty-Free Testing, MIET, NH-58, Delhi-Roorkee Highway, Baghpat Bypass Road Crossing, Meerut – 250005 |
| Lab Contact | +91-8937045757 (India), +1-510-500-5624 (USA), +44-741-834-4803 (UK) |
| Website | www.centreforcrueltyfreetesting.com |
| CTRI Verification | CTRI/2025/02/080287 verifiable at ctri.nic.in |
| Certificate Date | 27 February 2025 |
| Signed By | Nidhi Dixit, Clinical Research Associate, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd |
All certificates reflect testing on the commercial formulation. Results are test-specific under controlled laboratory conditions. Real-world outcomes may vary. Reapplication every 2 hours is recommended regardless of photostability.
References
- ISO 24444:2019. Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). International Organization for Standardization; 2019.
- Diffey BL. The Boots Star Rating system for sunscreen products. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2011;27(3):159-160. PMID: 21564299
- Wang SQ, Balagula Y, Osterwalder U. Photoprotection: A review of the current and future technologies. Dermatol Ther. 2011;24(1):31-47. PMID: 21463374
- Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Evaluation of the photostability of different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen. Int J Pharm. 2012;423(2):502-506. PMID: 22998660
- Fourtanier A, Moyal D, Seité S. Sunscreens containing the broad-spectrum UVA absorber, Mexoryl SX, prevent the cutaneous detrimental effects of UV exposure: a review of clinical study results. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2008;24(4):181-194. PMID: 18489491
- Schatenberg M, Herzog B, Quass K. Photostabilization of avobenzone by ethylhexyl salicylate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2017;16(5):738-746. PMID: 28417524
- Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180
- Bissett DL, et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231-238. PMID: 18492135
- Tanno O, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID: 11122280
- Papakonstantinou E, et al. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-315. PMID: 22583024
- Pavicic T, et al. Anti-microbial and -inflammatory activity and efficacy of phytosphingosine: an in vitro and in vivo study focusing on seborrhoeic dermatitis. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2011;36(2):189-195. PMID: 22151928
- Thiele JJ, Weber SU, Packer L. Sebaceous gland secretion is a major physiologic route of vitamin E delivery to skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2005;125(3):570-575. PMID: 16279310
- Fluhr JW, et al. Glycerol regulates stratum corneum hydration in sebaceous gland deficient (asebia) mice. J Invest Dermatol. 2001;117(3):570-577. PMID: 11348430
- Gueniche A, et al. Supplementation with oral probiotic bacteria maintains cutaneous immune homeostasis after UV exposure. Eur J Dermatol. 2014;24(1):40-47. PMID: 24641202
- Whitehouse FW, Jurgensen C, Weis MA. Allantoin: A review of its use in wound healing. J Am Podiatr Med Assoc. 1997;87(10):479-482. PMID: 9173762
- COLIPA. Method for the in vitro determination of UVA protection provided by sunscreen products. COLIPA; 2011.
- CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. Certificate of Sunscreen Efficacy Testing for The Derma Co. 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Aqua Gel. CTRI/2025/02/080287. CCFT Laboratories; 2025.