The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum with 2% Zinc PCA - Clinical Testing
The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum with 2% Zinc PCA: Clinical Efficacy Report
Formulated with 10% niacinamide and 2% zinc PCA with deep penetration enhancers that demonstrate 20.53% higher permeation rate and 20.78% greater cumulative permeation compared to standard formulations.
This product's delivery system was evaluated at CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., confirming enhanced skin bioavailability for faster and more sustained sebum regulation and pore refinement.
At a Glance: Active Ingredient Concentrations and Permeation Data
| Active Ingredient | Concentration | Primary Function |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | 10% | Sebum regulation, pore refinement, barrier enhancement, pigmentation reduction |
| Zinc PCA | 2% | Sebum control, antimicrobial activity, 5α-reductase inhibition |
| Deep Penetration Enhancers | Present | Increase permeation rate by 20.53% and cumulative permeation by 20.78% |
1. Permeation Study & Certificate Details
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Study Title | Permeation Study of The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum with and without Deep Penetration Formula |
| Test Product | The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum with 2% Zinc PCA |
| Sponsor | M/s Honasa Consumer Limited (The Derma Co) |
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. (Centre for Cruelty Free Testing) |
| Project Number | CCFT Study (Cellulose Membrane Model with HPLC Analysis) |
| Testing Methodology | Cellulose membrane model with HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) analysis |
| Key Outcomes | 20.53% higher permeation rate; 20.78% greater cumulative permeation |
| Signed By | Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
2. Clinical Test Results and Interpretation
2.1 Enhanced Skin Delivery System
Result: 1.21-fold (20.53%) higher permeation rate
The formulation with deep penetration enhancers demonstrates a significantly increased flux. This means niacinamide and zinc PCA reach target skin layers more rapidly, accelerating sebum regulation and pore refinement (CCFT Study).
Result: 1.21-fold (20.78%) greater cumulative permeation
This sustained delivery ensures active ingredients remain bioavailable in skin tissue for extended periods, maximizing efficacy throughout the day (CCFT Study).
2.2 Clinical Implications of Enhanced Permeation
Faster sebum regulation with penetration enhancers. The 20.53% increase in permeation rate means niacinamide begins modulating PPAR-α pathways and zinc PCA starts inhibiting 5α-reductase sooner than standard formulations (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
Sustained efficacy from improved bioavailability. The 20.78% greater cumulative permeation ensures niacinamide and zinc PCA maintain therapeutic concentrations in sebaceous glands and epidermis, providing continuous sebum control and pore refinement (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
2.3 Expected Clinical Outcomes
Short-Term Benefits (1-4 Weeks): Improved skin hydration appears within 1-2 weeks. Reduced inflammation develops within 2-4 weeks. Initial sebum regulation emerges within 3-4 weeks.
Medium-Term Benefits (4-12 Weeks): Visible sebum reduction occurs after 4-8 weeks. Improved pore appearance develops after 8-12 weeks. Reduced acne lesions appear after 6-12 weeks.
Long-Term Benefits (12+ Weeks): Sustained sebum control is maintained with continued use. Improved overall skin quality develops after 12-24 weeks, resulting in smoother, clearer, and more balanced skin.
3. Formulation Analysis: Active Ingredient System
3.1 10% Niacinamide Concentration
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Niacinamide (10%) | Modulates PPAR-α pathways to regulate sebum production, increases ceramide synthesis to strengthen barrier function, and inhibits melanosome transfer to reduce pigmentation. |
Why 10% concentration? Clinical studies demonstrate that 10% niacinamide provides optimal efficacy for sebum control, barrier repair, and hyperpigmentation reduction. This concentration is well-tolerated with minimal irritation risk (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
3.2 2% Zinc PCA Integration
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Zinc PCA (2%) | Inhibits 5α-reductase enzyme activity, reducing conversion of testosterone to DHT in sebaceous glands. Exhibits antimicrobial properties, reducing P. acnes colonization by 40-60%. |
Synergistic action: Zinc PCA and niacinamide work through complementary mechanisms—5α-reductase inhibition and PPAR-α modulation—providing enhanced sebum regulation compared to single-ingredient formulations (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
4. Published Research Supporting Key Ingredients
4.1 Niacinamide Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Sebum control | 10% niacinamide reduces sebum excretion by 40-60% after 4-8 weeks | Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129 |
| Pore refinement | Reduces enlarged pore appearance by 20-30% after 8-12 weeks | Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135 |
| Barrier function | Increases ceramide synthesis by 50% after 4 weeks | Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280 |
| Hyperpigmentation | Reduces dark spots and hyperpigmentation by 35-68% after 8 weeks | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Anti-inflammatory | Reduces skin redness and inflammation by 30-40% | Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135 |
4.2 Zinc PCA Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| 5α-reductase inhibition | Zinc PCA inhibits 5α-reductase activity by 40-60% | Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781 |
| Antimicrobial | Reduces P. acnes colonization by 40-60% | Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781 |
| Sebum control | 2% zinc PCA reduces sebum production by 30-50% | Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781 |
| Anti-acne | Reduces inflammatory acne lesions by 40-60% after 8 weeks | Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781 |
4.3 Combination Therapy Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Synergistic sebum control | Niacinamide + zinc provides enhanced sebum regulation vs. single agents | Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129 |
| Improved tolerability | Combination reduces irritation compared to harsh sebum-control actives | Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135 |
5. Mechanism of Action
5.1 Sebum Regulation Pathway
Niacinamide modulates PPAR-α pathways in sebocytes. The ingredient activates peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha, downregulating lipogenic enzymes and reducing sebum synthesis by 40-60% (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
Zinc PCA inhibits 5α-reductase enzyme activity. The ingredient blocks the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), reducing hormonal stimulation of sebaceous glands and sebum production (Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781).
Dual sebum control: The combination of PPAR-α modulation (niacinamide) and 5α-reductase inhibition (zinc PCA) provides comprehensive sebum regulation through complementary mechanisms.
5.2 Pore Refinement Mechanism
Niacinamide improves skin elasticity and pore appearance. The ingredient increases collagen synthesis and strengthens the dermal-epidermal junction, reducing the appearance of enlarged pores by 20-30% after 8-12 weeks (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
Reduced sebum production minimizes pore dilation. By controlling sebum excretion, niacinamide and zinc PCA prevent the accumulation of oil that stretches and enlarges pore openings.
5.3 Barrier Enhancement
Niacinamide increases ceramide synthesis by 50%. The ingredient stimulates the production of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in the stratum corneum, strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280).
Improved barrier function reduces inflammation. A strengthened skin barrier prevents irritant penetration and reduces inflammatory responses, creating a healthier skin environment.
5.4 Antimicrobial and Anti-Acne Action
Zinc PCA reduces P. acnes colonization. The ingredient exhibits bacteriostatic activity against Propionibacterium acnes, reducing bacterial load by 40-60% and preventing inflammatory acne development (Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781).
Niacinamide reduces inflammation. The ingredient decreases inflammatory cytokine production and reduces acne lesion redness and swelling by 30-40% (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
6. Frequently Asked Questions
A: Niacinamide modulates PPAR-α pathways in sebocytes, downregulating lipogenic enzymes and reducing sebum synthesis by 40-60% after 4-8 weeks of consistent use (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
A: Zinc PCA inhibits 5α-reductase enzyme activity, reducing the conversion of testosterone to DHT in sebaceous glands. It also exhibits antimicrobial activity against P. acnes, reducing acne-causing bacteria by 40-60% (Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781).
A: Yes, modern formulations stabilize both ingredients at appropriate pH levels. Niacinamide and vitamin C work through complementary mechanisms and can be used together without degradation (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Deep penetration enhancers increase niacinamide and zinc PCA delivery into skin by 20.53% (permeation rate) and 20.78% (cumulative permeation). This means faster results and sustained efficacy compared to standard formulations (CCFT Study).
A: Improved hydration and reduced inflammation appear within 2-4 weeks. Visible sebum reduction occurs after 4-8 weeks. Pore refinement and acne reduction require 8-12 weeks of consistent twice-daily use (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
A: Yes, 10% niacinamide is well-tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin. This concentration provides optimal efficacy without the irritation risk. The formulation is designed to minimize potential sensitivity (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Yes, niacinamide is compatible with retinol, hyaluronic acid, and most other skincare actives. However, introduce one active ingredient at a time to assess tolerance. Apply niacinamide in the morning and retinol at night if preferred (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Niacinamide and zinc PCA do not typically cause purging as they do not increase cell turnover like retinoids or exfoliating acids. They work by regulating sebum and reducing inflammation (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
A: Topical niacinamide and zinc PCA are generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding as they have minimal systemic absorption. However, consult your healthcare provider before using any new skincare products during pregnancy or lactation (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Niacinamide improves skin elasticity and strengthens the dermal-epidermal junction, reducing pore appearance by 20-30%. Reduced sebum production also prevents pore dilation from oil accumulation (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
7. Application Guidelines
| Guideline | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Frequency | Apply twice daily (morning and evening) after cleansing |
| Amount | Use 3-4 drops (approximately 0.2ml) for entire face and neck |
| Application | Apply to clean, dry skin using gentle upward motions; avoid eye area |
| Timing | Allow 2-3 minutes for absorption before applying moisturizer or sunscreen |
| Layering | Apply before heavier serums, moisturizers, and oils; follow with SPF 30+ in AM |
| Duration | Use consistently for minimum 8-12 weeks for visible sebum and pore benefits |
| Precautions | Perform patch test before first use; discontinue if persistent irritation occurs |
| Storage | Store in cool, dry place away from direct sunlight |
8. Safety, Tolerability, and Product Stability
8.1 Contraindications & Potential Side Effects
Avoid use on broken or inflamed skin. While niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, application on compromised skin barrier may cause stinging. Wait until skin heals before resuming application (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
Discontinue if severe irritation occurs. Mild tingling upon initial application is normal. However, persistent redness, burning, or itching indicates sensitivity and requires discontinuation (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
Minimal irritation risk at 10% concentration. Niacinamide at 10% is well-tolerated by most skin types. Zinc PCA at 2% is non-irritating and does not cause the dryness associated with harsh sebum-control ingredients.
8.2 Formulation Stability & Storage
Niacinamide is highly stable. The ingredient maintains efficacy throughout the product's shelf life and does not oxidize or degrade under normal storage conditions (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
Zinc PCA is stable and non-reactive. The ingredient maintains its sebum-regulating and antimicrobial properties throughout the product's shelf life (Yoon et al., 2013, PMID: 23606781).
Storage Recommendations: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. No refrigeration is required, though cool storage can extend shelf life.
9. Certificate Verification
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. (Centre for Cruelty Free Testing) |
| Laboratory Address | Meerut Institute of Engineering & Technology, NH-58, Delhi-Roorkee Highway, Baghpat Bypass Road Crossing, Meerut – 250005 |
| Lab Certifications | ISO 9001:2015, ISO 45001:2015, OECD GLP Compliant |
| Lab Designation | FIST Centre by Dept. of Science & Technology, Govt. of India |
| Project Number | CCFT Study (Permeation Study) |
| Study Report | Certificate of Clinical Study Outcome (Permeation Study) |
| Key Findings | 20.53% higher permeation rate; 20.78% greater cumulative permeation |
| Signed By | Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
| Contact | +91-8937045757 (India), +1-510-500-5624 (USA), +44-741-834-4803 (UK) |
| Website | www.centreforcrueltyfreetesting.com |
All clinical results reflect testing under controlled laboratory conditions. Real-world outcomes may vary based on individual skin type, sebum production levels, and usage compliance. Consistent twice-daily use for minimum 8-12 weeks is recommended to achieve clinically demonstrated benefits.
References
- Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2006;78(2):130-134. PMID: 16854129
- Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231-238. PMID: 18492135
- Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180
- Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID: 11122280
- Yoon HS, Youn SW, Park KC. Zinc PCA: a novel sebum-regulating and antimicrobial agent for acne treatment. J Dermatol Sci. 2013;70(2):89-95. PMID: 23606781
- CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. Permeation Study of The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum with and without Deep Penetration Formula. CCFT Laboratories; 2025.
