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The Derma Co 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with 5% Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid - Clinical testing
Independent Permeation Study
The Derma Co 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with 5% Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid: Clinical Efficacy Report
Formulated with dual vitamin C derivatives (10% total concentration), 5% niacinamide, and deep penetration enhancers that demonstrate 49.4% higher permeation rate and 54% greater cumulative permeation compared to standard formulations.
This product's delivery system was evaluated at CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. under Project No. CCFT-2024-12-316, confirming enhanced skin bioavailability for faster and more sustained results.
At a Glance: Active Ingredient Concentrations and Permeation Data
| Active Ingredient | Concentration | Primary Function |
|---|---|---|
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Primary derivative | Stable vitamin C for tyrosinase inhibition and collagen synthesis |
| Ascorbic Acid | Secondary derivative | Pure L-ascorbic acid for immediate antioxidant protection |
| Total Vitamin C | 10% | Optimal concentration for efficacy without irritation |
| Niacinamide | 5% | Clinically proven concentration for sebum regulation and barrier repair |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Present | Multi-molecular weight hyaluronic acid for deep hydration |
| Ferulic Acid | Present | Stabilizes vitamin C and doubles photoprotection |
| Deep Penetration Enhancers | Present | Increase permeation rate by 49.4% and cumulative permeation by 54% |
1. Permeation Study & Certificate Details
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Study Title | Permeation Study of The Derma Co 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with and without Deep Penetration Formula |
| Test Product | The Derma Co 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with 5% Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid |
| Sponsor | M/s Honasa Consumer Limited (The Derma Co) |
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. (Centre for Cruelty Free Testing) |
| Project Number | CCFT-2024-12-316 |
| Testing Methodology | Cellulose membrane model with HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) analysis |
| Key Outcomes | 49.4% higher permeation rate (1.49-fold); 54% greater cumulative permeation (1.54-fold) |
| Signed By | Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
2. Clinical Test Results and Interpretation
2.1 Enhanced Skin Delivery System
Result: 49.4% higher permeation rate (1.49-fold)
The formulation with deep penetration enhancers demonstrates a significantly increased flux. This means vitamin C and niacinamide reach target skin layers more rapidly, accelerating visible results (CCFT Study CCFT-2024-12-316).
Result: 54% greater cumulative permeation (1.54-fold)
This sustained delivery ensures active ingredients remain bioavailable in skin tissue for extended periods, maximizing efficacy throughout the day (CCFT Study CCFT-2024-12-316).
2.2 Clinical Implications of Enhanced Permeation
Faster results with penetration enhancers. The 49.4% increase in permeation rate means collagen synthesis stimulation and pigmentation reduction begin sooner than with standard formulations (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
Sustained efficacy from improved bioavailability. The 54% greater cumulative permeation ensures vitamin C and niacinamide maintain therapeutic concentrations in skin tissue, providing continuous antioxidant and brightening effects (Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984).
2.3 Expected Clinical Outcomes
Short-Term Benefits (1-4 Weeks): Immediate antioxidant protection occurs within hours. Improved skin hydration and enhanced radiance develop within 2-4 weeks as vitamin C inhibits melanin production and niacinamide improves barrier function.
Medium-Term Benefits (4-12 Weeks): Visible pigmentation reduction occurs after 8-12 weeks via dual-action brightening. Improved skin firmness and reduced sebum production also become apparent.
Long-Term Benefits (12+ Weeks): Significant collagen remodeling occurs after 12-24 weeks, increasing collagen I and III density to improve skin firmness and reduce wrinkle depth. Sustained pigmentation control is maintained with continued use.
3. Formulation Analysis: Active Ingredient System
3.1 Dual Vitamin C System
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Stable, lipid-soluble derivative that penetrates the stratum corneum effectively and converts to active vitamin C within skin cells. |
| Ascorbic Acid | Pure L-ascorbic acid that delivers immediate antioxidant protection at the skin surface. |
Why 10% concentration? Clinical studies demonstrate that 10% vitamin C provides optimal efficacy for collagen synthesis and pigmentation reduction. Concentrations above 20% show diminishing returns with increased irritation risk (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
3.2 5% Niacinamide Integration
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Niacinamide (5%) | Reduces hyperpigmentation by 35-68% by inhibiting melanosome transfer. Increases ceramide synthesis and reduces TEWL by up to 24%. |
Compatibility with Vitamin C: Modern formulations stabilize both ingredients at appropriate pH levels, allowing them to work synergistically without degradation (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
3.3 Ferulic Acid Stabilization
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Ferulic Acid | Doubles the photoprotection of vitamin C and E. Prevents vitamin C oxidation, significantly extending shelf life. |
Clinical significance: When combined with vitamin C, ferulic acid stabilizes the formulation and provides synergistic antioxidant protection against UV-induced damage (Lin et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310).
3.4 Hyaluronic Acid & Hydration
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Multi-molecular weight humectant that binds up to 1000x its weight in water for deep, multi-level hydration. |
Clinical evidence: Increases skin hydration by 40-60% after 4 weeks and reduces transepidermal water loss by 20-30%, supporting the barrier while actives work (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024).
4. Published Research Supporting Key Ingredients
4.1 Vitamin C Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Collagen synthesis | 10% vitamin C increases collagen I production by 50% after 12 weeks | Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420 |
| Hyperpigmentation | Vitamin C reduces melasma severity by 40-60% after 16 weeks | Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296 |
| Photoprotection | Topical vitamin C reduces UV-induced erythema by 40-60% | Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984 |
4.2 Niacinamide Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Hyperpigmentation | 5% niacinamide reduces dark spots by 35-68% after 8 weeks | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Barrier function | Niacinamide increases ceramide synthesis by 50% after 4 weeks | Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280 |
| Sebum control | 5% niacinamide reduces sebum excretion by 40-60% after 4 weeks | Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129 |
4.3 Ferulic Acid Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Stabilization | Ferulic acid doubles vitamin C and E photoprotection | Lin et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310 |
| Antioxidant | Reduces UV-induced oxidative damage by 50-70% | Murray et al., 2013, PMID: 23682676 |
5. Mechanism of Action
5.1 Pigmentation Reduction Pathway
Vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity. The ingredient interferes with the copper-binding site of tyrosinase, reducing melanin synthesis by up to 50% after 12 weeks of consistent use (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
Niacinamide blocks melanosome transfer. The ingredient prevents the transfer of melanin-containing melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing visible pigmentation without affecting melanin production (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180).
Dual-action brightening: The combination of tyrosinase inhibition (vitamin C) and melanosome transfer blockade (niacinamide) provides comprehensive pigmentation control through complementary mechanisms.
5.2 Collagen Synthesis Stimulation
Vitamin C activates prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase enzymes. These enzymes are essential for collagen triple helix formation and stabilization. Topical vitamin C increases collagen I and III synthesis by up to 50% after 12 weeks (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
Niacinamide supports extracellular matrix production. The ingredient increases keratin, involucrin, and filaggrin synthesis, improving skin barrier integrity and firmness (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
5.3 Antioxidant Protection Network
Vitamin C neutralizes reactive oxygen species. The ingredient scavenges superoxide radicals, hydroxyl radicals, and singlet oxygen generated by UV exposure and environmental pollutants (Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984).
Ferulic acid regenerates vitamin E. The ingredient works synergistically with vitamin C to regenerate oxidized vitamin E, creating a comprehensive antioxidant network (Lin et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310).
6. Frequently Asked Questions
A: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, lipid-soluble derivative that penetrates the stratum corneum more effectively and converts to active vitamin C within skin cells. Ascorbic Acid is pure L-ascorbic acid that provides immediate antioxidant protection at the skin surface but is less stable (Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296).
A: Vitamin C and niacinamide work through complementary mechanisms to address pigmentation. Vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity while niacinamide blocks melanosome transfer to skin cells. Modern formulations stabilize both ingredients for synergistic efficacy (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Immediate antioxidant protection occurs within hours. Improved hydration and radiance appear within 2-4 weeks. Visible pigmentation reduction and collagen synthesis improvements require 8-12 weeks of consistent twice-daily use (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
A: Deep penetration enhancers increase vitamin C and niacinamide delivery into skin by 49.4% (permeation rate) and 54% (cumulative permeation). This means faster results and sustained efficacy compared to standard formulations without enhancers (CCFT Study CCFT-2024-12-316).
A: Yes, vitamin C and niacinamide are compatible with retinol, hyaluronic acid, and most other skincare actives. However, introduce one active ingredient at a time to assess tolerance. Apply vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night to minimize potential irritation (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Ferulic acid stabilizes vitamin C and doubles its photoprotective efficacy. The ingredient also provides independent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, reducing UV-induced damage by 50-70% (Lin et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310).
A: Yes, 10% vitamin C is well-tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin. This concentration provides optimal efficacy without the irritation risk associated with concentrations above 20%. The inclusion of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid further reduces potential irritation (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
A: Store in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and heat. The formulation includes ferulic acid and other stabilizers to prevent oxidation, but refrigeration can extend shelf life. Discontinue use if the serum turns dark brown or orange, indicating oxidation (Murray et al., 2013, PMID: 23682676).
A: Topical vitamin C and niacinamide are generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding as they have minimal systemic absorption. However, consult your healthcare provider before using any new skincare products during pregnancy or lactation (Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984).
A: Vitamin C and niacinamide do not typically cause purging as they do not increase cell turnover like retinoids or exfoliating acids. Niacinamide actually helps reduce acne by regulating sebum production and improving barrier function (Draelos et al., 2006, PMID: 16854129).
A: This 10% vitamin C concentration with ferulic acid stabilization and deep penetration enhancers provides comparable efficacy to many professional treatments for daily maintenance. Professional peels or in-office treatments use higher concentrations for more aggressive results but require downtime and carry higher irritation risk (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
7. Application Guidelines
| Guideline | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Frequency | Apply twice daily (morning and evening) after cleansing |
| Amount | Use 3-4 drops (approximately 0.2ml) for entire face and neck |
| Application | Apply to clean, dry skin using gentle upward motions; avoid eye area |
| Timing | Allow 2-3 minutes for absorption before applying moisturizer or sunscreen |
| Layering | Apply before heavier serums, moisturizers, and oils; follow with SPF 30+ in AM |
| Duration | Use consistently for minimum 8-12 weeks for visible pigmentation and collagen benefits |
| Precautions | Perform patch test before first use; discontinue if persistent irritation occurs |
| Storage | Store in cool, dark place; refrigeration recommended to extend stability |
8. Safety, Tolerability, and Product Stability
8.1 Contraindications & Drug Interactions
Avoid use on broken or inflamed skin. Vitamin C may cause stinging on compromised skin barrier. Wait until skin heals before resuming application (Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
Discontinue if severe irritation occurs. Mild tingling upon initial application is normal. However, persistent redness, burning, or itching indicates sensitivity and requires discontinuation (Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296).
Compatible with most topical medications. Vitamin C and niacinamide do not interfere with prescription acne treatments, retinoids, or antibiotics. However, separate application times by 30 minutes to minimize potential interactions (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
Enhances sunscreen efficacy. Vitamin C and ferulic acid work synergistically with sunscreen to provide enhanced photoprotection. Always apply sunscreen after vitamin C serum in morning routines (Lin et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310).
8.2 Formulation Stability & Signs of Oxidation
Ferulic acid prevents vitamin C oxidation. The inclusion of ferulic acid significantly extends the shelf life of vitamin C by preventing oxidative degradation. The serum should remain stable for 12-18 months when stored properly (Murray et al., 2013, PMID: 23682676).
Dual derivative system enhances stability. Combining stable 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid with pure Ascorbic Acid provides both immediate efficacy and long-term stability. The ethyl derivative protects the pure form from rapid oxidation (Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296).
Color change indicates degradation. Fresh serum should be clear to light amber. Dark brown or orange color indicates vitamin C oxidation and reduced efficacy. Discontinue use if significant color change occurs (Murray et al., 2013, PMID: 23682676).
9. Certificate Verification
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. (Centre for Cruelty Free Testing) |
| Laboratory Address | Meerut Institute of Engineering & Technology, NH-58, Delhi-Roorkee Highway, Baghpat Bypass Road Crossing, Meerut – 250005 |
| Lab Certifications | ISO 9001:2015, ISO 45001:2015, OECD GLP Compliant |
| Lab Designation | FIST Centre by Dept. of Science & Technology, Govt. of India |
| Project Number | CCFT-2024-12-316 |
| Study Report | Certificate of Clinical Study Outcome (Permeation Study) |
| Key Findings | 49.4% higher permeation rate; 54% greater cumulative permeation |
| Signed By | Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
| Contact | +91-8937045757 (India), +1-510-500-5624 (USA), +44-741-834-4803 (UK) |
| Website | www.centreforcrueltyfreetesting.com |
All clinical results reflect testing under controlled laboratory conditions. Real-world outcomes may vary based on individual skin type, condition, and usage compliance. Consistent twice-daily use for minimum 8-12 weeks is recommended to achieve clinically demonstrated benefits. Always use SPF 30+ during daytime when using vitamin C products.
References
- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical vitamin C and the skin: mechanisms of action and clinical applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17. PMID: 28785420
- Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. PMID: 23901296
- Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. PMID: 28810984
- Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180
- Bissett DL, et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231-238. PMID: 18492135
- Tanno O, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID: 11122280
- Lin JY, Selim MA, Shea CR. UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;52(6):1038-1044. PMID: 16279310
- Murray JC, et al. A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection against human skin damage caused by UV irradiation. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;59(3):418-425. PMID: 23682676
- Draelos ZD, et al. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2006;78(2):130-134. PMID: 16854129
- Papakonstantinou E, et al. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-315. PMID: 22583024
- CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. Permeation Study of The Derma Co 10% Vitamin C Face Serum with and without Deep Penetration Formula. Project No. CCFT-2024-12-316. 2024.