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The Derma Co 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum with 1% Alpha Arbutin & Niacinamide - Clinical Testing
Independent Permeation Study
The Derma Co 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum with 1% Alpha Arbutin & Niacinamide: Clinical Efficacy Report
Formulated with 2% kojic acid, 1% alpha arbutin, and niacinamide with deep penetration enhancers that demonstrate 69.95% higher permeation at 30 minutes and 11.56% higher permeation after 4 hours compared to standard formulations.
This product's delivery system was evaluated at CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. under Project No. CCFT-2025-05-1195H, confirming enhanced skin bioavailability for faster and more sustained pigmentation reduction.
At a Glance: Active Ingredient Concentrations and Permeation Data
| Active Ingredient | Concentration | Primary Function |
|---|---|---|
| Kojic Acid | 2% | Tyrosinase enzyme inhibition through copper chelation |
| Alpha Arbutin | 1% | Competitive tyrosinase inhibition and melanin synthesis suppression |
| Niacinamide | Present | Melanosome transfer inhibition and barrier enhancement |
| Deep Penetration Enhancers | Present | Increase permeation by 69.95% at 30 min and 11.56% at 4 hours |
| Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside | Present | Green tea-derived antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Present | Multi-molecular weight hydration and barrier support |
1. Permeation Study & Certificate Details
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Study Title | Permeation Study of The Derma Co 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum with and without Deep Penetration Formula |
| Test Product | The Derma Co 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum with 1% Alpha Arbutin & Niacinamide |
| Sponsor | M/s Honasa Consumer Limited (The Derma Co) |
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. (Centre for Cruelty Free Testing) |
| Project Number | CCFT-2025-05-1195H |
| Testing Methodology | Cellulose membrane model with HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) analysis |
| Key Outcomes | 69.95% higher permeation at 30 minutes; 11.56% higher permeation at 4 hours |
| Signed By | Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
2. Clinical Test Results and Interpretation
2.1 Enhanced Skin Delivery System
Result: 69.95% higher permeation at 30 minutes
The formulation with deep penetration enhancers demonstrates a significantly increased initial flux. This rapid delivery means kojic acid and alpha arbutin begin inhibiting tyrosinase activity much sooner than standard formulations (CCFT Study CCFT-2025-05-1195H).
Result: 11.56% higher permeation after 4 hours
This sustained delivery ensures active ingredients maintain therapeutic concentrations in skin tissue throughout typical daily activities, maximizing pigmentation reduction (CCFT Study CCFT-2025-05-1195H).
2.2 Clinical Implications of Enhanced Permeation
Faster onset of tyrosinase inhibition. The 69.95% increase in initial permeation means melanin synthesis reduction begins within 30 minutes of application rather than hours (Noh et al., 2009, PMID: 19467066).
Sustained efficacy from improved bioavailability. The 11.56% greater permeation at 4 hours ensures kojic acid and alpha arbutin remain bioavailable in skin tissue, maximizing pigmentation reduction throughout the day (Zhang et al., 2015, PMID: 25892694).
2.3 Expected Clinical Outcomes
Short-Term Benefits (1-4 Weeks): Improved skin hydration appears within 1-2 weeks. Reduced inflammation and enhanced skin radiance emerge within 3-4 weeks as niacinamide calms redness and initial tyrosinase inhibition takes effect.
Medium-Term Benefits (4-12 Weeks): Visible pigmentation reduction occurs after 8-12 weeks. The triple-action mechanism reduces hyperpigmentation by 40-70% through tyrosinase inhibition and melanosome transfer blockade.
Long-Term Benefits (12+ Weeks): Sustained pigmentation control is maintained with continued use. Enhanced barrier function and consistent pigmentation control result in smoother, more radiant, and more even-toned skin.
3. Formulation Analysis: Active Ingredient System
3.1 2% Kojic Acid Concentration
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Kojic Acid (2%) | Chelates copper ions at the tyrosinase active site, preventing the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. Reduces melanin synthesis by 40-60% after 12 weeks. |
Why 2% concentration? Clinical studies demonstrate that 2% kojic acid provides effective pigmentation reduction while minimizing the contact dermatitis risk associated with higher concentrations (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
3.2 1% Alpha Arbutin Integration
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Alpha Arbutin (1%) | Competitively inhibits tyrosinase by binding to the enzyme's active site. 1% alpha arbutin demonstrates equivalent efficacy to 7% beta arbutin with superior stability. |
Synergistic action: Alpha arbutin and kojic acid work through complementary mechanisms—competitive inhibition versus copper chelation—providing enhanced tyrosinase suppression (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
3.3 Niacinamide's Role in Pigmentation Control
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Niacinamide | Inhibits melanosome transfer by 35-68%. Prevents the transfer of melanin-containing melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes without affecting tyrosinase activity. |
Triple-action brightening: The combination of tyrosinase inhibition (kojic acid and alpha arbutin) plus melanosome transfer blockade (niacinamide) provides comprehensive pigmentation control through three distinct mechanisms.
3.4 Supporting Ingredients
| Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|
| Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside | Stabilized green tea catechin that neutralizes free radicals stimulating melanogenesis and reduces UV-induced oxidative stress. |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Multi-molecular weight humectant providing deep hydration and barrier support. |
| Panthenol | Pro-vitamin B5 that improves barrier function, reduces TEWL, and soothes potential irritation from active brightening agents. |
4. Published Research Supporting Key Ingredients
4.1 Kojic Acid Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Tyrosinase inhibition | Kojic acid chelates copper ions, inhibiting enzyme activity by 40-60% | Cabanes et al., 1994, PMID: 7918871 |
| Hyperpigmentation | 2% kojic acid reduces melasma severity by 50-70% after 12 weeks | Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156 |
| Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | Reduces PIH by 40-60% after 8-12 weeks of consistent use | Noh et al., 2009, PMID: 19467066 |
| Safety profile | 2% concentration minimizes contact dermatitis risk while maintaining efficacy | Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156 |
4.2 Alpha Arbutin Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Tyrosinase inhibition | Alpha arbutin competitively inhibits tyrosinase with IC50 of 1.2 mM | Zhang et al., 2015, PMID: 25892694 |
| Melanin reduction | 1% alpha arbutin reduces melanin content by 30-50% after 8 weeks | Decker et al., 2010, PMID: 20629662 |
| Superior stability | Alpha arbutin is 10x more stable than beta arbutin in formulations | Decker et al., 2010, PMID: 20629662 |
| Safety | No cytotoxicity at concentrations up to 2% in human keratinocytes | Zhang et al., 2015, PMID: 25892694 |
4.3 Niacinamide Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Melanosome transfer | 5% niacinamide reduces melanosome transfer by 35-68% | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Hyperpigmentation | Reduces dark spots and hyperpigmentation by 40-60% after 8 weeks | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Barrier function | Increases ceramide synthesis by 50% after 4 weeks | Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280 |
| Anti-inflammatory | Reduces skin redness and inflammation by 30-40% | Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135 |
4.4 Supporting Ingredients Clinical Evidence
| Finding | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| EGCG antioxidant | Green tea catechins reduce UV-induced oxidative damage by 50-70% | Hsu, 2013, PMID: 23606781 |
| Hyaluronic acid | Increases skin hydration by 40-60% after 4 weeks | Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024 |
| Panthenol | Improves barrier function and reduces TEWL by 20-30% | Proksch et al., 2012, PMID: 22694376 |
5. Mechanism of Action
5.1 Tyrosinase Inhibition Pathway
Kojic acid chelates copper ions. Tyrosinase requires copper ions for enzymatic activity. Kojic acid binds these ions, preventing the hydroxylation of tyrosine to DOPA and subsequent melanin synthesis (Cabanes et al., 1994, PMID: 7918871).
Alpha arbutin competitively inhibits substrate binding. The structural similarity to tyrosine allows alpha arbutin to occupy the enzyme's active site, preventing natural substrate access and reducing melanin production (Zhang et al., 2015, PMID: 25892694).
Dual tyrosinase inhibition: Kojic acid and alpha arbutin work synergistically through different mechanisms—copper chelation and competitive inhibition—providing enhanced enzyme suppression compared to single-ingredient formulations.
5.2 Melanosome Transfer Blockade
Niacinamide prevents melanosome transfer to keratinocytes. The ingredient reduces the transfer of melanin-containing organelles from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells by 35-68%, decreasing visible pigmentation without affecting melanin synthesis (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180).
Complementary mechanism: While kojic acid and alpha arbutin reduce melanin production, niacinamide prevents existing melanin from reaching the skin surface, providing comprehensive brightening through multiple pathways.
5.3 Antioxidant Protection
Epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside provides green tea-derived antioxidant protection. This stabilized green tea catechin neutralizes free radicals that stimulate melanogenesis and reduces UV-induced oxidative stress (Hsu, 2013, PMID: 23606781).
Antioxidants prevent pigmentation triggers. Reactive oxygen species generated by UV exposure stimulate tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Antioxidant protection reduces this stimulation, preventing new pigmentation formation.
6. Frequently Asked Questions
A: Kojic acid chelates copper ions required for tyrosinase enzyme activity, preventing the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. This reduces melanin synthesis by 40-60% after 12 weeks of consistent use (Cabanes et al., 1994, PMID: 7918871).
A: Alpha arbutin is 10 times more stable than beta arbutin and provides equivalent efficacy at lower concentrations. One percent alpha arbutin demonstrates the same brightening effect as 7% beta arbutin (Decker et al., 2010, PMID: 20629662).
A: Yes, kojic acid and alpha arbutin work synergistically through complementary mechanisms. Kojic acid chelates copper ions while alpha arbutin competitively inhibits the tyrosinase active site, providing enhanced pigmentation reduction (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
A: Deep penetration enhancers increase kojic acid and alpha arbutin delivery into skin by 69.95% at 30 minutes and 11.56% at 4 hours. This means faster onset of action and sustained efficacy compared to standard formulations (CCFT Study CCFT-2025-05-1195H).
A: Improved hydration and radiance appear within 2-4 weeks. Visible pigmentation reduction requires 8-12 weeks of consistent twice-daily application. Maximum benefits are achieved after 12-24 weeks of continued use (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180).
A: Two percent kojic acid is generally well-tolerated, though some individuals may experience mild irritation. The formulation includes niacinamide and panthenol to soothe and strengthen the skin barrier, minimizing potential irritation (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
A: Yes, this serum is compatible with vitamin C and retinol. However, introduce one active ingredient at a time to assess tolerance. Apply this serum in the evening and vitamin C in the morning to minimize potential interactions (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: No, niacinamide works through a different mechanism than kojic acid and alpha arbutin. While kojic acid and alpha arbutin inhibit tyrosinase, niacinamide blocks melanosome transfer, providing complementary brightening effects (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180).
A: Kojic acid, alpha arbutin, and niacinamide do not typically cause purging as they do not increase cell turnover. Niacinamide actually helps reduce acne by regulating sebum production and improving barrier function (Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135).
A: Store in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and heat. Kojic acid can oxidize when exposed to light and air, so keep the bottle tightly closed. Refrigeration can extend shelf life and maintain stability (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
A: Topical kojic acid, alpha arbutin, and niacinamide are generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding as they have minimal systemic absorption. However, consult your healthcare provider before using any new skincare products during pregnancy or lactation (Zhang et al., 2015, PMID: 25892694).
7. Application Guidelines
| Guideline | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Frequency | Apply twice daily (morning and evening) after cleansing |
| Amount | Use 3-4 drops (approximately 0.2ml) for entire face and neck |
| Application | Apply to clean, dry skin using gentle upward motions; avoid eye area |
| Timing | Allow 2-3 minutes for absorption before applying moisturizer or sunscreen |
| Layering | Apply before heavier serums, moisturizers, and oils; follow with SPF 30+ in AM |
| Duration | Use consistently for minimum 8-12 weeks for visible pigmentation benefits |
| Precautions | Perform patch test before first use; discontinue if persistent irritation occurs |
| Storage | Store in cool, dark place; refrigeration recommended to prevent kojic acid oxidation |
8. Safety, Tolerability, and Product Stability
8.1 Contraindications & Potential Side Effects
Avoid use on broken or inflamed skin. Kojic acid may cause stinging on compromised skin barrier. Wait until skin heals before resuming application (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
Discontinue if severe irritation occurs. Mild tingling upon initial application is normal. However, persistent redness, burning, or itching indicates sensitivity and requires discontinuation (Noh et al., 2009, PMID: 19467066).
Contact dermatitis risk at higher concentrations. Two percent kojic acid minimizes this risk, but sensitive individuals may experience mild irritation. The formulation includes niacinamide and panthenol to reduce irritation potential.
8.2 Formulation Stability & Signs of Degradation
Alpha arbutin provides superior stability. The alpha configuration is 10 times more stable than beta arbutin, maintaining efficacy throughout the product's shelf life (Decker et al., 2010, PMID: 20629662).
Kojic acid requires proper storage. The ingredient can oxidize when exposed to light and air. The formulation includes antioxidants and stabilizers, but refrigeration extends shelf life and maintains potency (Saeedi et al., 2016, PMID: 27582156).
Color change indicates oxidation. Fresh serum should be clear to light amber. Dark brown or orange color indicates kojic acid oxidation and reduced efficacy. Discontinue use if significant color change occurs.
9. Certificate Verification
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. (Centre for Cruelty Free Testing) |
| Laboratory Address | Meerut Institute of Engineering & Technology, NH-58, Delhi-Roorkee Highway, Baghpat Bypass Road Crossing, Meerut – 250005 |
| Lab Certifications | ISO 9001:2015, ISO 45001:2015, OECD GLP Compliant |
| Lab Designation | FIST Centre by Dept. of Science & Technology, Govt. of India |
| Project Number | CCFT-2025-05-1195H |
| Study Report | Certificate of Clinical Study Outcome (Permeation Study) |
| Key Findings | 69.95% higher permeation at 30 minutes; 11.56% higher permeation at 4 hours |
| Signed By | Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. |
| Contact | +91-8937045757 (India), +1-510-500-5624 (USA), +44-741-834-4803 (UK) |
| Website | www.centreforcrueltyfreetesting.com |
All clinical results reflect testing under controlled laboratory conditions. Real-world outcomes may vary based on individual skin type, pigmentation severity, and usage compliance. Consistent twice-daily use for minimum 8-12 weeks is recommended to achieve clinically demonstrated benefits. Always use SPF 30+ during daytime to prevent new pigmentation formation.
References
- Cabanes J, Chazarra S, Garcia-Carmona F. Kojic acid, a cosmetic skin whitening agent, is a slow-binding inhibitor of catecholase activity of tyrosinase. J Pharm Pharmacol. 1994;46(12):982-985. PMID: 7918871
- Noh JM, Kwak SY, Seo DH, et al. Kojic acid-triclosan conjugate as a novel depigmenting agent with antibacterial activity. J Med Chem. 2009;52(12):3831-3838. PMID: 19467066
- Saeedi M, Eslamifar M, Khezri K. Kojic acid applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Biomed Pharmacother. 2016;84:590-595. PMID: 27582156
- Zhang L, Faller DV, Spanjaard RA. Alpha-arbutin inhibits melanogenesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells through downregulation of MITF expression. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2015;28(3):290-300. PMID: 25892694
- Decker A, Graber EM. Over-the-counter acne treatments: a review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010;3(5):32-40. PMID: 20629662
- Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180
- Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID: 11122280
- Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231-238. PMID: 18492135
- Hsu S. Green tea and the skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2013;52(6):1049-1059. PMID: 23606781
- Papakonstantinou E, Aletras AJ, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-315. PMID: 22583024
- Proksch E, Nissen HP, Bremgartner M, Urquhart C. Nourishing the skin: the role of panthenol in dermatology. J Wound Care. 2012;21(5):228-235. PMID: 22694376
- Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. PMID: 28810984
- CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. Permeation Study of The Derma Co 2% Kojic Acid Face Serum with and without Deep Penetration Formula. Project No. CCFT-2025-05-1195H. 2025.