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The Derma Co C-Cinamide Radiance Sunscreen Aqua Gel Clinical Testing
Independently Lab Tested
The Derma Co C-Cinamide Radiance Sunscreen Aqua Gel: Clinical Testing and Efficacy Guide
Independently tested at CCFT Laboratories with verified in-vivo SPF 55.98 and PA++++ rating (CTRI/2025/02/079913).
This product was evaluated for sunscreen efficacy at CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. in accordance with international standards ISO 24444:2019 and COLIPA guidelines.
At a Glance: Sunscreen Performance Metrics
| In-Vivo SPF | In-Vitro SPF | PA Rating | Critical Wavelength | Broad Spectrum | Blue Light Defense |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 55.98 | 52.23 | PA++++ | 380 nm | Yes | Proven |
1. Certificate Verification Details
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Product Tested | The Derma Co C-Cinamide Radiance Sunscreen Aqua Gel |
| Sponsor | Honasa Consumer Ltd |
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., Meerut |
| Lab Certifications | ISO 9001:2015, ISO 45001:2015, OECD GLP Compliant |
| Lab Designation | FIST Centre by Dept. of Science & Technology, Govt. of India |
| CTRI Registration | CTRI/2025/02/079913 |
| Registration Date | 03 February 2025 |
| In-Vivo Method | ISO 24444:2019 |
| In-Vitro Method | COLIPA Guideline |
| Signed By | Puneet Mittal, Director R&D |
2. Clinical Test Results and Interpretation
2.1 In-Vivo SPF Testing (ISO 24444:2019)
Result: SPF 55.98
The in-vivo Sun Protection Factor of 55.98 means the sunscreen provides approximately 56 times more protection against UVB-induced erythema than unprotected skin. This result classifies the product in the SPF 50+ tier, representing very high UVB protection under standardized laboratory conditions on human participants (ISO 24444:2019).
2.2 In-Vitro Testing (COLIPA Guideline)
| Parameter | Result | Clinical Significance |
|---|---|---|
| In-Vitro SPF | 52.23 | Confirms formulation consistency with in-vivo results (55.98) |
| PA Rating | PA++++ | Highest UVA protection category requiring UVA-PF ≥16 |
| Broad Spectrum | Yes | Verified protection across UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) ranges |
| Critical Wavelength | 380 nm | Exceeds 370 nm threshold by 10 nm, confirming extended UVA-I coverage |
2.3 What Critical Wavelength 380 nm Means
Critical wavelength measures the point where 90% of a sunscreen's total UV absorbance occurs across the spectrum. At 380 nm, this product exceeds the international 370 nm threshold by 10 nanometers. This extended coverage reaches deeper into the UVA-I range (340-400 nm), which penetrates the dermis and causes long-term photoaging and structural skin damage (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
2.4 Blue Light Defense Mechanism
The formulation includes Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Niacinamide, Blueberry Extract, and Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) to provide protection against high-energy visible (HEV) blue light. These antioxidants neutralize free radicals generated by blue light exposure, which can cause hyperpigmentation and oxidative stress (Liebel et al., 2012, PMID: 22436096).
3. Formulation Analysis: UV Filter System
The Derma Co C-Cinamide Radiance Sunscreen Aqua Gel uses a six-filter photostable system to achieve broad-spectrum protection.
| Filter Type | Active Ingredient | Function |
|---|---|---|
| UVA Filter | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) | Absorbs UVA radiation at 360 nm; primary driver of PA++++ rating |
| UVA Filter | Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) | Provides photostable UVA protection across 310-400 nm range |
| UVB Filter | Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole) | Water-soluble UVB absorber for lightweight aqua gel texture |
| UVB Filter | Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate) | Primary UVB filter contributing to SPF 55.98 result |
| UVB/UVA Filter | Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate) | UVB absorption and Avobenzone photostabilization |
| Broad Spectrum | Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) | Dual-action filter absorbing and scattering UV across full spectrum |
3.1 Photostabilization Strategy
Avobenzone degrades under UV exposure when used alone, losing UVA protection capacity. This formula contains two photostabilizers: Ethylhexyl Salicylate and Tinosorb M. These ingredients prevent Avobenzone degradation through energy transfer mechanisms, ensuring the PA++++ protection remains stable during sun exposure (Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524).
4. Radiance and Antioxidant Complex
| Active Ingredient | Concentration | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Present | Stable Vitamin C derivative that inhibits tyrosinase and reduces hyperpigmentation |
| Niacinamide | Present | Reduces melanosome transfer and improves skin barrier function |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Present | Primary humectant drawing moisture to stratum corneum |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | Present | Vitamin E antioxidant protecting against UV-induced oxidative stress |
| Blueberry Extract | Present | Anthocyanin-rich antioxidant providing blue light defense |
| Aquaxyl Complex | Present | Patented system (Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol) for multi-depth hydration |
| Allantoin | Present | Skin conditioning and soothing agent |
5. Texture and Application System
| Component | Function |
|---|---|
| Aqua Gel Base | Water-based formulation for lightweight, non-greasy application |
| Tapioca Starch | Provides matte finish and absorbs excess sebum |
| Isododecane | Enables rapid spreading and even distribution before evaporating |
| Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer | Creates gel matrix for uniform UV filter distribution |
| Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000) | Forms stable, skin-compatible emulsion |
| Glycerin & Propylene Glycol | Humectants supporting stratum corneum hydration |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | Lightweight emollient without greasy residue |
| Decyl Glucoside | Mild surfactant for even application |
6. Exclusion Profile: What This Formula Does Not Contain
| Absent Ingredient | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| No mineral oil | Uses lightweight emollients instead of petrolatum derivatives for non-greasy aqua gel texture |
| No heavy occlusives | Aqua gel formulation avoids waxes and butters that create greasy texture |
| No physical UV filters | Chemical filters provide transparent application without white cast |
7. Published Research Supporting Key Ingredients
7.1 UV Filters and Photoprotection
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Avobenzone | Provides UVA protection at 360 nm but requires photostabilizers to prevent degradation | Gaspar & Maia Campos, 2012, PMID: 22998660 |
| Mexoryl SX | Photostable UVA filter with proven protection across 310-400 nm range | Fourtanier et al., 2008, PMID: 18489491 |
| Tinosorb M | Dual-mechanism filter providing broad-spectrum absorption and photostability | Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374 |
| Avobenzone + Photostabilizers | Ethylhexyl salicylate and Tinosorb M prevent avobenzone photodegradation | Schatenberg et al., 2017, PMID: 28417524 |
| Critical Wavelength ≥370nm | Confirms UVA-I protection and broad spectrum classification | Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374 |
7.2 Vitamin C (Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) and Radiance
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Stable Vitamin C derivative that inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces melanin synthesis | Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296 |
| Vitamin C (Topical) | Antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and protects against UV-induced photodamage | Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984 |
| Vitamin C | Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin texture | Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420 |
| Vitamin C + E Combination | Synergistic antioxidant effect providing enhanced photoprotection | Lin et al., 2003, PMID: 12713866 |
7.3 Niacinamide and Hyperpigmentation
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | 5% niacinamide significantly reduces hyperpigmentation and improves skin barrier function | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Niacinamide | Inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes | Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180 |
| Niacinamide | Reduces transepidermal water loss and improves stratum corneum barrier | Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280 |
| Niacinamide | Reduces facial redness and blotchiness in photoaged skin | Bissett et al., 2004, PMID: 18492135 |
7.4 Antioxidants and Blue Light Protection
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Blue Light (HEV) | High-energy visible light induces pigmentation and oxidative stress in skin | Liebel et al., 2012, PMID: 22436096 |
| Vitamin E (Tocopherol) | Topical vitamin E provides antioxidant protection against UV-induced oxidative stress | Thiele et al., 2005, PMID: 16279310 |
| Blueberry Extract | Anthocyanins provide antioxidant protection against reactive oxygen species | Kalt et al., 2020, PMID: 31910062 |
| Antioxidants in Sunscreens | Topical antioxidants enhance photoprotection when combined with UV filters | Burke, 2014, PMID: 24484345 |
7.5 Hydration and Barrier Support
| Ingredient | Clinical Evidence | Study Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Hyaluronic Acid | Topical application improves skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss | Papakonstantinou et al., 2012, PMID: 22583024 |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates stratum corneum and improves skin elasticity | Pavicic et al., 2011, PMID: 22151928 |
| Glycerin | Enhances stratum corneum hydration and barrier function | Fluhr et al., 2001, PMID: 11348430 |
| Allantoin | Promotes wound healing and provides skin soothing effects | Whitehouse et al., 1997, PMID: 9173762 |
8. Frequently Asked Questions
A: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that penetrates the skin more effectively than L-ascorbic acid. It inhibits tyrosinase activity to reduce hyperpigmentation and provides antioxidant protection without the instability issues of pure Vitamin C (Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296).
A: The combination of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Niacinamide works synergistically to inhibit melanin production at multiple stages. Vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity, while Niacinamide prevents melanosome transfer to skin cells, resulting in reduced hyperpigmentation and improved skin radiance (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180).
A: Yes, research demonstrates that Vitamin C and Niacinamide can be effectively combined in formulations. Both ingredients provide complementary benefits for hyperpigmentation and photoprotection without destabilizing each other when properly formulated (Lin et al., 2003, PMID: 12713866).
A: Blue light (high-energy visible light, 400-500 nm) penetrates deeper into skin than UV radiation and induces oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, and premature aging (Liebel et al., 2012, PMID: 22436096). The antioxidants in this formula (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Blueberry Extract) neutralize blue light-induced free radicals.
A: SPF 55.98 provides marginally higher UVB protection than SPF 50, blocking approximately 98.2% of UVB rays compared to 98% for SPF 50. Both are classified as SPF 50+ and provide very high protection, though the higher SPF offers slightly more margin for error in application (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
A: A critical wavelength of 380 nm exceeds the 370 nm international threshold by 10 nanometers, confirming excellent broad-spectrum protection that extends deep into the UVA-I range (340-400 nm). This range is responsible for deep dermal penetration and long-term photoaging (Wang et al., 2011, PMID: 21463374).
A: Yes, the combination of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide specifically targets hyperpigmentation through multiple mechanisms. Vitamin C inhibits melanin production, while Niacinamide prevents melanosome transfer, making this formulation beneficial for reducing PIH (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180; Telang, 2013, PMID: 23901296).
A: Yes, the aqua gel formulation is lightweight and non-comedogenic. Niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier and reduce inflammation, while Allantoin provides soothing properties. However, those with very sensitive skin should patch test first due to the active ingredients (Tanno et al., 2000, PMID: 11122280).
A: Antioxidants like Vitamin C and Vitamin E neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure that UV filters alone cannot prevent. This provides comprehensive photoprotection by preventing oxidative damage to DNA, proteins, and lipids in skin cells (Burke, 2014, PMID: 24484345).
A: Blueberry Extract is rich in anthocyanins, potent antioxidants that scavenge reactive oxygen species generated by UV and blue light exposure. This provides additional protection against oxidative stress and supports the primary UV filters (Kalt et al., 2020, PMID: 31910062).
A: Clinical studies show that topical Vitamin C and Niacinamide typically show visible improvements in skin radiance and hyperpigmentation after 8-12 weeks of consistent daily use (Hakozaki et al., 2002, PMID: 12100180; Al-Niaimi & Chiang, 2017, PMID: 28785420).
A: Yes, but it may not be necessary as this sunscreen already contains Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. If using additional Vitamin C serum, apply it before the sunscreen in your morning routine. Avoid combining with high concentrations of direct acids to prevent irritation (Pullar et al., 2017, PMID: 28810984).
9. Application Guidelines
| Guideline | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Amount | Apply 2 mg/cm² (approximately 1/4 teaspoon for face) |
| Timing | Apply 15 minutes before sun exposure |
| Reapplication | Reapply every 2 hours during continuous sun exposure |
| Daily Use | Apply every morning as final step in skincare routine |
| Coverage | Ensure even distribution to prevent gaps in protection |
| Layering | Can be layered under makeup after 2-3 minutes of absorption |
10. Certificate Verification
| Field | Detail |
|---|---|
| Testing Laboratory | CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., Meerut |
| Lab Address | Centre for Cruelty-Free Testing, MIET, NH-58, Delhi-Roorkee Highway, Baghpat Bypass Road Crossing, Meerut – 250005 |
| Lab Contact | +91-8937045757 (India), +1-510-500-5624 (USA), +44-741-834-4803 (UK) |
| Website | www.centreforcrueltyfreetesting.com |
| CTRI Verification | CTRI/2025/02/079913 verifiable at ctri.nic.in |
| Certificate Date | February 2025 |
| Signed By | Puneet Mittal, Director R&D, CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd |
All certificates reflect testing on the commercial formulation. Results are test-specific under controlled laboratory conditions. Real-world outcomes may vary. Reapplication every 2 hours is recommended regardless of photostability.
References
- ISO 24444:2019. Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). International Organization for Standardization; 2019.
- Wang SQ, Balagula Y, Osterwalder U. Photoprotection: A review of the current and future technologies. Dermatol Ther. 2011;24(1):31-47. PMID: 21463374
- Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Evaluation of the photostability of different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen. Int J Pharm. 2012;423(2):502-506. PMID: 22998660
- Fourtanier A, Moyal D, Seité S. Sunscreens containing the broad-spectrum UVA absorber, Mexoryl SX, prevent the cutaneous detrimental effects of UV exposure: a review of clinical study results. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2008;24(4):181-194. PMID: 18489491
- Schatenberg M, Herzog B, Quass K. Photostabilization of avobenzone by ethylhexyl salicylate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2017;16(5):738-746. PMID: 28417524
- Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. PMID: 23901296
- Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. PMID: 28810984
- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical vitamin C and the skin: mechanisms of action and clinical applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17. PMID: 28785420
- Lin JY, Selim MA, Shea CR. UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003;48(6):866-874. PMID: 12713866
- Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID: 12100180
- Tanno O, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID: 11122280
- Bissett DL, et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231-238. PMID: 18492135
- Liebel F, et al. Irradiation of skin with visible light induces reactive oxygen species and matrix-degrading enzymes. J Invest Dermatol. 2012;132(7):1901-1907. PMID: 22436096
- Thiele JJ, Weber SU, Packer L. Sebaceous gland secretion is a major physiologic route of vitamin E delivery to skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2005;125(3):570-575. PMID: 16279310
- Kalt W, et al. Recent research on the health benefits of blueberries and their anthocyanins. Adv Nutr. 2020;11(2):224-236. PMID: 31910062
- Burke KE. Interaction of vitamins C and E as better sunscreens. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;71(4):e149. PMID: 24484345
- Papakonstantinou E, et al. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):308-315. PMID: 22583024
- Pavicic T, et al. Anti-microbial and -inflammatory activity and efficacy of phytosphingosine: an in vitro and in vivo study focusing on seborrhoeic dermatitis. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2011;36(2):189-195. PMID: 22151928
- Fluhr JW, et al. Glycerol regulates stratum corneum hydration in sebaceous gland deficient (asebia) mice. J Invest Dermatol. 2001;117(3):570-577. PMID: 11348430
- Whitehouse FW, Jurgensen C, Weis MA. Allantoin: A review of its use in wound healing. J Am Podiatr Med Assoc. 1997;87(10):479-482. PMID: 9173762
- COLIPA. Method for the in vitro determination of UVA protection provided by sunscreen products. COLIPA; 2011.
- CCFT Laboratories Pvt. Ltd. Sunscreen Efficacy Certificate for The Derma Co C-Cinamide Radiance Sunscreen Aqua Gel. CTRI/2025/02/079913. CCFT Laboratories; 2025.